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Re: Crackle tubes

>neonthom@earthlink.net wrote:
>> 
>> >I don't remember if we talked about this topic in the past but it has
>> >surfaced again.  Do any of you have experience making these that would share
>> >the technique with me ( and the rest that are interested).  I have had three
>> >requests in the past two weeks and I think I had better check it out.
>> >Can you help?
>> >Howie Cohen
>> 
>> Howie -
>> I found some helpful info re: crackle tubes in the ftp archive for this list.
>> 
>> ftp.netcom.com     directory:  /ftp/pub/de/dead
>> 
>> hope it helps...
>> 
>> Tom
>
>Yes thanks Tom.  I did check that file only to come up with more questions.  
>Thanks for the tip.  I was still wondering if these tubes can be produced 
>successfully by taking a piece of lets say 18mm and filling one end with 
>glass chips.  After its as full as possible, sealing on another electrode on. 
> the trodes would be straight out.  After that, connect the tube via a long 
>tubulation to the pump and with the tube in a kiln.  Bring the kiln up to 
>about 300c and let it st for two days or so.  After it cools off, back fill 
>with 8mm or so of NEON.  Heat the tubulation from the kiln to the seal point 
>a little then seal the unit off.  In the groups opinion, would you think this 
>would work?  Tell me, why to you think that Larry Albrights tubes are made 
>out of pyrex and why does he double 90 degree the electrode back.  (No ASCII 
>drawing here.. for Kenny)
>I am thinking about trying it but not sure if I want to go through the 
>expense of the set up of the kiln.
>Howie Cohen
>Just Neon  <--- no crackle as of yet
--
You basically have the technique there.
It is best to keep the glass tube pieces or beads away from the trodes.
This can be done by poking dents near the electrodes. You will have
much better results if you acid wash the beads ahead of time.
(we did one tube without washing where the beads were clear at the far end
and white at the tubulation end which shows how much junk is actually
moved in the processing)
One reason pyrex is better is because these tubes tend to get a hot,
so if you don't get all the shit out the tube will self destruct..

You don't need two days to pump down. You will have to experiment but a
couple of hours should do it. You then need to use an induction coil
to heat the electrodes.

The coolest one I've seen was a 3foot cylinder about 4"-5" in diameter.
The walls of the cylinder were hollow and filled with shards of
phosphored glass. The glass was pyrex and was obviously done be a
lab glass worker. I cant remember the artist this morning for some
reason but he is the guy that does all the airport "neon" like Chicago's
O'hare. He mostly uses fiber optics that just look like glass.

You can get cheap glass beads at Michaels craft store. If you use beads
you get nice tight packing and therefore "fast short" crackling. Tubulation
glass on the otherhand gives more predictable but longer light streaks.

You might try the beads but after washing add some phosphor...mmmh I may
have to try that.

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