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Re: mercury
Many thanks for actually useful post. The many others are really VEILED
advertisments. I asked many questions about fused quartz work and thought there
were a few people telling how competent they are no one helped!
Thanks again
>
> > I think all of us are concerned, I go and have my blood checked periodically
> > for mercury. What can be done about blowing on hot leaded glass? Should we
> > all switch to another type of glass?
>
> John & Howie,
>
> I went thru a phase were I was absolutely panicked about mercury. At a
> shop I worked at, I carried a charcoal trap that I put in line with my
> blowhose. I refused to even seal a new bottle on the manifold without
> that trap. The bombing table there was like a toxic waste dump. If you
> looked really close, there were minute droplets of Hg in EVERY crack and
> crevice. The other benders called me "Mr. Paranoid."
>
> I've relaxed a bit, as now I have my own shop and I treat mercury very
> respectfully. I did an extensive amount of personal research into Hg
> contamination, and I have concluded the following:
>
> 1. Spills should be cleaned up immediately, before they disperse
> into every smaller and smaller droplets. A small suction device is good,
> as is masking tape (yes, I got this out of Fusion magazine and it seems
> to work great).
> 2. The practice of sprinkling sulfur on Hg is only moderately
> effective. It does form a "skin" of HgS over the droplet, but does not
> completely amalgamate it. Finely powered zinc works better. I have some
> that is "60 mesh" size (whatever that is) and it reacts more vigorously
> and completly than sulphur. You can actually sweep these "rocks" up.
> Some commercial Hg clean-up products contain sulphur mixed with strong
> alkalines like lye. This is supposed to be effective, but it's perhaps
> only practical in a large-scale decontamination.
> 3. Once you fail to take step #1, the decontamination process
> becomes many fold more difficult - perhaps impossible without discarding
> of contaminated surfaces.
>
> I also believe a great way to control spills is to have your bombing table
> of a smooth surface, like Formica, and do all your filling on that table.
> A shallow "ditch" routed around the perimeter of the table will catch any
> droplets that roll.
>
> This all applies to spills of course. The other sources of contamination
> would be re-using mercury traps, exhaust from your mechanical pump, and
> repairing mercury tubes. All of these are avoidable. The pump exhaust
> can (should) exit to the outside.
>
> I agree with Tom (he mentions in the SB article on him) that most people
> use way too much Hg in tubes. I have seen tubes with a giant pea-sized
> glob rolling around. All that's needed is enough to vaporize to an
> equillibrium with the filling pressure of the tube. This is usually just
> a few "salt" grains. It takes a bit longer to age in the tube, but once
> it does it lights just as well even in cold weather.
>
> I feel comfortable because I know I'm doing everything I can to protect
> my health, and I know many older neon folks that were much more careless
> during their carrers. Most of them are okay. I know that's a lousy
> gauge of effectiveness, but it makes me feel better!
>
> As to lead glass - I have wondered about that too, but I have never heard
> evidence that any lead is volatilized during the heating process.
>
> -John Anderson
>
>
>
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