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Re: Re: ribbon burner port; oxy
Frank,
Most of the Neon News stuff about solenoid valve setups was in the first two
issues.
Solenoid valves come in all size and shapes, often through electronics
surplus mail-order places as well as mechanically-oriented junk shops (the
kind of place I hit when I visit the mainland). $5 each used is about right.
Grainger etc sell them new for $20-$30. The ones I've used for six years I
got from Jerryco for $3 each years ago and they're stainless, 1/8"-port 115
volt. For low gas pressures (like city gas) you need a large diameter --
match the gas line diameter. When in Holland ask for magneet afsluiters (it
took me many months to uncover this information!)
I have one with about a 1" bore that shuts off the AIR on my ribbon -- nice
to have no hiss at all when it's off. (though I also have a bypass air line
that lets a small amout past this valve, to vent the ribbon of any possible
gas or oxy.)
Should an extra margin of safety be desired (or if OSHA is about) use 12- or
24-volt valves with a step-down transformer. Also, unlike the one NN
diagram, don't mix gas line and solenoid-valve electrical connections in the
same enclosed compartment.
The only *minor* caveat with a solenoid-valve setup is seeing how the
torches burn cold vs. hot. I need to add a slight bit of gas at the start of
the day, or if it's been off more than an hour or so, then lean out the
flame again once I've done a few bends. With nothing else to think about
(bending all day) I think of adding yet another solenoid valve / adjusting
valve setup, a "cold-start" switch...then again, Val thinks I should just
run flashing LEDs around my whole torch cabinet and be done with it.
> why the oxy? Hotter, faster?
-I use oxy principally on my EGL S-21 cannon-head type crossfire. It helps
on the ribbon, but not so dramatically. (Except for the howl -- THAT"S
dramatic!)
-It takes about half the time to reach a given heat, for $20 worth of oxy
every month or two. I find it VERY tedious trying to use an oxy-free flame
now (be forewarned: there's no going back).
-For us still-plodding-along-with-leaded-glass types, the range of torch
flame that won't blacken the glass is very large -- no finicky adjusting.
This means one can really CRANK the torch, like with 15mm slop-'em-out
channel letters. Zero-to-bending in about 10-12 seconds for a double-back.
-I still use a relatively "cold" bending style, moving the glass just as it
gets up to temperature (as opposed to some who really soak it with heat and
gather it, which IMHO contributes to staining on the bends) -- I don't work
the glass hotter, just sooner.
-An alternative to the full kickpedal on-off solenoid-valve torch
arrangement is to have the torches constantly on, just a momentary-contact
footswitch for the oxy (pretty simple to rig).
Hope this helps,
-Ted
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